Last year I got a wonderful opportunity to work on a Central Asian project covering the countries of Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. Needless to say, the wanderer in me was extremely excited at this opportunity – I had heard a lot about Central Asia but only through books or stories or maybe some history. The mum in me was a bit doubtful though, about leaving the kids for long stretches at a time. The family deliberated and we all decided to jump into this new adventure called Central Asia!
Central Asia held a special meaning for me being part of the erstwhile Soviet Union. I was in my primary years when the Soviet Union still existed and there was a lot of cultural exchange between our countries. I remember mobile vans stationed at schools or other places that sold children’s books from the USSR. My favourites were Russian folk tales. A large part of my early years was spent reading about Baba Yaga, Buddhimati (wise) Vasilisa and Prince Ivan. To me it felt like an opportunity to go to a land which had fascinated me most of my childhood! But a land that was too far from me.
However, when I started booking my tickets I realized with shock how close some of these countries are! Almaty is a 3.5 hour flight from Delhi and direct flights to Bishkek and Dushanbe would be under 3 hours. Going to Tashkent from Delhi is probably just a little longer than going to Bombay! Each of these cities is beautiful and yet undiscovered by the Indian traveler. Though a very interesting subset of South Asians are very familiar with these countries. These are our medical students! On my first flight to Bishkek (via Almaty), I was surprised to notice a large no. of young Indian people. I was even more surprised when I realized that they were all also transiting to Bishkek! Upon enquiry, I found out that there are approximately 5,000 Indian students studying medicine in Bishkek alone! And they are such a high percentage of the total student population, that they get Diwali holidays as well! Anyway, I digress.
Central Asia remains unknown to most of the world even after more than 25 years of independence. Being part of the Soviet Union, Central Asia along with the other countries behind the iron curtain was hidden from the rest of the world. Even after the break up of the USSR, Central Asia remained under the shadow of Russia and being land locked and away from the Western Economic powers, did not receive much economic attention from the globalized world. Each of the five countries have followed their own path of economic and political transformation. Moving from centrally planned economies to being led by the market has not been easy and some countries are ahead of the others in this transformation.
Till date I have been to Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan), Dushanbe (Tajikistan), Tashkent and Samarkand (Uzbekistan) and Almaty – only for a few hours (Kazakhstan). Each of these cities is beautiful in its own way and deserves a blog of its own. There is a lingering flavor of the USSR – in the buildings, in the city plans, in the systems that have survived through these years. But there is also a lot of newness as these countries strive to come out of their old identity. A lot of old buildings have been pulled down and beautiful new ones erected. (I simply loved the ones in Dushanbe) Many countries are resurrecting their old heroes – the statue of Ismoil Somoni was erected in 1999 in Dushanbe. Similarly a statue of Manas, another local hero was erected in Bishkek in 2011. These have come up in places that used to have statues of Lenin earlier.
I have had some of the most fascinating and educating conversations with various people during my visits. I was keen to to understand what they feel about the break up of the USSR. The new generation seems to have embraced the new world order while many from the older generation are nostalgic about the Soviet era. They remember the ease of jobs and services and how the basic needs of the citizens were taken care of. For example, the education system or provision of other public services. The state provided free education, day care and a job upon turning into an adult. The state’s role has now contracted and it is no more the main employer or provider of other services such as health care etc. These jobs have been turned over to the private sector. However, markets are not necessarily fully evolved in all the countries and many individuals also talk about increasing corruption or lack of quality of public services.
Most young people clearly prefer the merit based system and the opportunity to work hard and rise high. When a colleague said that it was very hard for anyone to be poor during the Soviet reign – I immediately became dreamy eyed till she went on and said that there was very little incentive for people to work hard and a disincentive for the brighter people. It reminded me of Ayn Rand’s “Atlas Shrugged” and how well it brings out the fallacies of the Marxian principle “from each according to his ability and to each according to his need”.
On the one hand, there was no need to work hard, on the other, there was hardly any incentive to either. There was no encouragement to enterprise – in fact it was illegal! (I feel like laughing since all we talk now is about promoting entrepreneurship). You couldn’t run even the smallest shop – whatever one produced was for the state. Everything was centrally planned – down to what clothes people would wear! There used to be pattern makers at the national level who would decide about 30-40 patterns of shirts/ dresses/ pants etc., the kind of fabric and colour – and all Govt. factories would manufacture a certain number of each type of clothing! (Anyone from the fashion industry reading this!) Imagine every fifteenth person wearing identical clothes!
I found a slide online which elaborates on what I am saying (not sure of source so can’t give credit):
It was even more surprising when during an official discussion, my colleagues mentioned that people traditionally do not have the habit to save. It sounded odd to me (since in India – everyone is busy saving – either in their bank accounts or under their pillow or inside tin boxes!). The reason was even more baffling. Since the state was supposed to provide for everyone, savings were actually frowned upon. You were probably a bourgeoisie if you decided to save some money!
Another interesting aspect was the attitude towards religion. The Soviet Union followed a policy of state atheism which basically discourages all religion. It is different from secularism where the state is officially neutral in religious matters. In simpler terms, the Soviet Government told its people to practice religion within the confines of their houses and that nothing of religious nature was to be done publicly. There were of course mosques and churches, but fewer and far between. Coming from India, where we celebrate everything together, on the streets, this seemed to me fascinating, bizarre, peaceful and bland all at the same time! Central Asia is a traditionally Islamic region and twenty eight years later, the attitude of people towards religion continues to be muted, though some countries are more religious than others. However, most of the Governments continue to discourage overt religious activity.
OK, I have just realised that it is pretty late at night (1.53 a.m.) and this is becoming a very long piece. I still haven’t got a chance to talk about the people, their food or culture, but if I start doing that now, this blog will become interminably long and probably not end. So however abrupt this end may seem, I must publish it and sleep. I hope you have enjoyed peeking into Central Asia. I will definitely be back with more. And do think about taking your next holiday in one of the Central Asian countries. I promise you will not be disappointed.
So for now dobroy nochi. That’s good night in Russian.
[…] 10-12 days a month. The experience was exhilarating and very very enriching. (more about it in future blogs) It also meant that I did not have much time to dwell on anything besides managing work and family […]
Nice read, well crafted. Looking forward to read about landscape, culture, food etc..
Thanks a lot. the next one will be coming soon. do follow my blog if you can.
Awesome piece as usual.
Shall cinsider Central Asia as our next holiday destination.
yes you should definitely – these places are not too far.
Excellent write up!
Keep your blogging up…
On another note, loved the Baba Yaga tales myself-always found then much more interesting than the milk-and-water Grimm’s!
Thanks so much!
Wow….the things you learn while touring the world! Those times of the “Soviet-era” are truly dreamy. I wonder how our world would be right now, with people living that way, hhhmmm….
Absolutely fascinating. what an awesome opportunity for you. Thank you for sharing all this wonderful information about your travels.
I agree, those places are so unique and totally undiscovered. I am so happy you got this opportunity. I am yet to travel to Kazahstan yet (which is fun because a part of my family is from there).
that’s great! do follow my blog as I am going to write more about central asia!
This sounds like a fascinating trip. What an opportunity to explore that region!
Fantastic information! Very well put too.
thanks! glad you liked it.
It looks like such lovely place to visit!
it is indeed!
What a wonderful post! Learning while traveling always makes it more exciting! Thank you for sharing your journey!
Interesting to get an insight of the old political regime. Fascinating places.
thanks! do follow my blog for I will be writing more on this.
[…] am sorry – I know I broke off quite abruptly on the last blog. But here I am, to continue my story of Central Asia. The region consists of the former Soviet […]
I read a lot of travel posts, but this one really had me hooked as it had such a different perspective! I really want to visit Central Asia- hopefully it will be soon.
Reading this post felt like I was visiting the and was virtually there. How beautifully you have written it, feels like a true wanderer has written this piece. Loved it.
Not many people consider Central Asia as a holiday destination but it is indeed a beautiful place to visit. Loved reading your article.
You travel posts are quite elaborate and exhaustive for readers to get the right picture of the place and its USP. Glad you shared each and every minute detail to follow before planning an itinerary.
I know a few people studying in Central Asia, just like they can’t stop singing praises of it’s hidden beauty. Marx theory in practice could be seen in those countries. It must be quite a cultural experience and slight shocking too. Looking forward to the next part
This was a wonderful read. Central Asia is very close to us but indeed we know precious little about it. The difference in culture, beliefs and lifestyle is so different from ours!
Although I am not a big fan of travelling, I love the way, how you express your love about Central Asia. It is very useful for those who want to travel to Central Asia.Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing such a wonderful post Central Asia is on my list to and your post made me plan soon my next trip and explore more
Wow! You are lucky to explore the less explored places.By sharing such detailed post about Central Asian countries you have initiated an urge for me to put them on my travel list.
I am a travel-holic.. I love the way you have given every details of your journey.. I love it.
Central Asia seems like an amazing tourist experience. Thank you for an insight into planning it right
Lovely memories shared here! I love traveling and I am hoping to be there on my next travel too.
Really they are rich in culture and undiscovered beauty yet so close
what an awesome trip esepcially if it is for work. You get to see such a different perspective to life and living. Keen to read more on Central Asia from your travels.
Fun read.. Truly central Asia is an untouched beauty with a lot to explore.. Awaiting your next post on this… dobroy nochi
Central Asia has such wonderful places to visit that are historically rich. Uzbekistan is on my list because they have some amazing food.
After reading this I feel I should also go there once, visit those cities, feel that historical era. And please make a second part of it. I would like to know about the lifestyle, food and all.